I can vouch for this myself, purchased a couple of ebay and as someone points out, the internal lithium batteries were flat.
Took to it with a Dremel and both were up and running.
The first one was used on an external to the Mainboard RTC adapter board and I mounted the button cell onto the module.
The second one was for a Premium Mainboard so didn't have the clearance required, so brought the internal line that originally went to the +v connection of the internal battery, out to Pin 20 of the module. Then cutting the track from the pin of Pin 20 on the board. With a little "outside the box" thinking I was able to add a strategically placed mounting pin hole in the Mainboard and combined with the original NiCad battery negative pin hole mount, a button cell holder and run a short wire between the +v terminal of the holder to Pin 20 of the RTC.
This battery has successfully maintained the correct time now for about three years, with it's placement just behind the RGB video output D9 connector, I can replace the battery without even removing the Coreboard.
My Note #4 in the post #4 above, I think now the loss of power I referred to was the cutting of the power for Pin 20 rather than pin 22. If anyone decides to have a closer look at this, let us know what you see in relation to this.
Ernest
Took to it with a Dremel and both were up and running.
The first one was used on an external to the Mainboard RTC adapter board and I mounted the button cell onto the module.
The second one was for a Premium Mainboard so didn't have the clearance required, so brought the internal line that originally went to the +v connection of the internal battery, out to Pin 20 of the module. Then cutting the track from the pin of Pin 20 on the board. With a little "outside the box" thinking I was able to add a strategically placed mounting pin hole in the Mainboard and combined with the original NiCad battery negative pin hole mount, a button cell holder and run a short wire between the +v terminal of the holder to Pin 20 of the RTC.
This battery has successfully maintained the correct time now for about three years, with it's placement just behind the RGB video output D9 connector, I can replace the battery without even removing the Coreboard.
My Note #4 in the post #4 above, I think now the loss of power I referred to was the cutting of the power for Pin 20 rather than pin 22. If anyone decides to have a closer look at this, let us know what you see in relation to this.
Ernest